When I made my toile for the V8774 Jeans, I followed the instructions to the letter. It was confusing, time-consuming and very fiddly. And I still put the zip in facing the inside rather than the outside (entirely my own fault), and got confused as to which of the three lines at the fly was the 'folding line' (hence why you could see my zip showing through here).
Of course... there's always an easier way. You just have to find it!
I found it, and I'm so totally sharing it. If you're sewing a fly on pants - you absolutely need to watch this video on the Thread's website by Sandra Betzina (I bow down to her genius):
Video: An Easy, Flat Fly-Front Zipper
I would have LOVED to be able to apply this video directly to these pants. But, unfortunately for me, this Vogue jeans pattern is different - it has a 'Fly' and a 'Fly facing' (effectively making it a 3 piece fly, once you consider the front of the pants), both of which the pattern Sandra was using, doesn't have.
|The Fly Facing|
Checking pairs of RTW jeans I own, this three piece fly seems to be the norm. Although V8774 would have you use self-fabric bias binding to finish the edges - um, hello - bulk? Instead I've used the same fabric as was used for my pocket bags - some left-over Liberty of London cotton.
|The 'Fly' is at the front and the 'Fly Facing' is underneath|
I'm sure there are plenty of good resources out there in www land, but I soldiered through and used a combination of Sandra's expertise and the Vogue instructions. I got a result that looks RTW, and that I can live with:
I was hoping to document the process here today, but I ended up so confused that I didn't think it right to record that kind of experience. So another time!
Some good news though - I used an AWESOME RTW-styled zipper I purchased from Taylor Tailor - who I came across whilst researching jeans construction on the Male Pattern Boldness jeans sewalong. Taylor has a great store for all things jeans related - even bought some of his selvedge denim for a future project...
|7" antique brass finish jeans zipper from Taylor Taylor|
Has anyone else got any nightmare zipper experiences they'd like to share with me so I know I'm not the only one?